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Question - Wide angle shots

Discussion in 'Photography and Video Forum' started by dubgav14, Apr 1, 2014.

  1. dubgav14

    dubgav14 28DL Full Member
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    Hi,

    I've been looking threw loads of the explore posts to get ideas on how to get good angles when taking photos. there is one type of shot I've noticed where the photographer is up close to an object or looking along a corridor and you can see right down to the floor almost to the photographers feet and the same angle up over but the picture isn't really distorted much? are they using a special kind of wide angle lenses?

    Cheers Dubgav14
     

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  2. The Kwan

    The Kwan funksoul Brother
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    I think you will find that a lot of folk use wide angle lenses to get plenty into the shot and the likes of a sigma 10-20mm is a decent place to start or a samyang if on a budget but also bear in mind that the images that you have been looking at may be crops from a larger image or even run through software that helps to straighten the wide distortion.
     
  3. dubgav14

    dubgav14 28DL Full Member
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    cheers will look in to it :)
     
  4. coat953

    coat953 28DL Full Member
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    Using a wide angle lens set level will result in minimal distortion. When you start tilting it up or down, that's when the angles start going strange. I use an 18mm on a 35mm film camera and I love the distortion, but if I'm careful with keeping it strictly level, I can get tremendous coverage and keep the perspective normal.
     
  5. Shatners

    Shatners Silly Bugger
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    Main thing with wangles is you have to forget the usual thirds rules and put the subject bang in the middle, as coat says if you go low or high distortion to straight linesman is exadurated.

    I took this last night with a 7.5mm Samyang and distortions pretty good for a fish eye

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Derphouse

    Derphouse "fella"
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    the 10-20 sigma is an ok lens, i had a nice enough run with mine, i just think when you buy a wide angle you completely forget how to take photographs of anything but WIDE and there for got rid FAST
     
  7. Fudge

    Fudge 28DL Regular User
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    Depending on whether you really need 10mm, or are comfortable at 20mm, look at the Vivitar 19-35mm.

    Same lens is produced under other brands like Tokina, they're all essentially the same.
     
  8. Shatners

    Shatners Silly Bugger
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    Amen to that fella... Amen
     
  9. Xan_Asmodi

    Xan_Asmodi Cave Monster
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    W-Angle is like any tool though, it should be use for the appropriate. You wouldn't use a sledge hammer to crack a Brazil nut. I carry two lenses with me, a 55mm f1.7 and a 10-24mm Tamron. E.g...


    55mm
    [​IMG]

    10-24mm
    [​IMG]

    Same explore different effects
     
  10. Fudge

    Fudge 28DL Regular User
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    That's what I'm talking 'bout! You go derpmanhouse.
     
  11. Derphouse

    Derphouse "fella"
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    I just mean if you buy like a 10-20, then you just shoot wide everyone does it, every urbexer get a 10-20 and shoots everything wide, it made me lazy, I bought a 24mm and 35mm prime still both fairly wide, but because it's prime you can still bash the aperture right down get up close to stuff and not distort it so you miss less detail ....even a 20mm prime is good for that.....I just honestly think wide angles are the death of a lot of good photography in urbex..everyone's desperate to hve one and everyone's pictures are the same low and wide..hahaha Personal prefer I guess!
     
  12. Xan_Asmodi

    Xan_Asmodi Cave Monster
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    I can see your point, hence why I prefer to play with the light and shadows. I got bought my W-angle so can't complain. Will have a look for wider primes thought:thumb
     
  13. OverArch

    OverArch 28DL Full Member
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    The other option is to stitch multiple shots together. It doesn't give you the instant gratification of being able to see it in camera but you get far more detail when zoomed in on a stitched shot. Plus it avoids a lot of the post processing to correct the verticals - granted you can't avoid post processing fully as you'd still need to stitch, but the result is worth it. I use this technique a lot for my landscape photography.
     
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