Report - Kings' Scholars Pond Sewer (aka River Tyburn), London 2018

[tallginge]

Kings Scholars Pond Sewer
(aka The Lost River Tyburn)​

The River Tyburn is one of the three big lost rivers north of The Thames, the other two being The Fleet and The Westbourne.​

Before 1815 most of London’s houses had cesspits, emptied by nightmen and it was an offence to discharge sewerage into the sewers, they were for rainwater only! After that year, though, it was permitted and in 1848 a law was passed making it compulsory to drain houses into the sewers.​

Like most of Londons lost rivers, most of The Tyburn was covered over and/ or rerouted by the Metropolitan Commissioners of Sewers (pre 1856) and therefore before Bazalgette’s scheme of intercepting sewers, pumping stations and outfall sewers. There were eight very distinct Local Commissions and the boundaries between them were very clear. Each Commission had their own designs for their own sewers meaning the shape, size and levels at the boundaries varies considerably. This goes some way to explaining seemingly random changes of style, something I’d noticed but thought nothing more of when traipsing through them.​

The Kings Scholars Pond Sewer (KSPS) flows at various stages along its length into the two Mid Level Interceptors and the two Low Level Interceptors. In heavy rain it can also overflow into a storm relief, known to explorers as The Egg.​

I’ve explored this sewer over numerous visits. Firstly, by myself, inspired by Ojays and Adders reports, then a short but rather royal section with @The_Raw and more recently and over three visits with @TheVicar making this the fourth system we’ve completed nigh on end to end together.​

I’ve described the course of the sewer from north to south as it seems the most logical but it wasn’t explored this way, they never are. Below is a map of the original course of the River Tyburn. See Adders’ report for the route the sewer takes, it’s quite similar.​

(pic from London’s Lost Rivers book – Paul Talling)​

We begin near the north-west corner of Regents Park at the KSPS’s interaction with the Mid-Level No.2 Interceptor, which I explored solo after TheVicar helped me with a lid. This junction has changed a lot over the years and this is best described in the link below by draining legend Jon Doe. His sketches are second to none!​

http://www.sub-urban.com/anatomy-of-a-junction-one/#more-363​

As you can see, the main egg shaped sewer on the right is joined by a local sewer and the combined flow goes down a very, very long set of stairs to the interceptor. I went where storm flows go, off to the left, over the timber boards. That camera didn’t look like it’d been there long.​

A short walk down, the pipe returns to egg and arrives at this junction. Either the middle or left pipe was once a diversion of the Ranelagh. The KSPS then splits into two as it ducks under the canal. It’s smaller than the one in The Fleet and that one’s bad enough so that was as far as I went on this occasion.​

I returned with TheVicar for the next section and we walked up to the split from the other side, turned around and walked back downstream, passing the happy flusher and numerous side pipes, several of them with tumbling bays a short distance along them. These need exploring one day as most of them are traversable and although redundant now, were obviously constructed at that size for a reason. I also learnt an important lesson about full frame cameras and cropped lenses as well…..sorry about that, could’ve been worse​

After catching up with TheVicar, he told me he could see lights around the next bend, not something you see very often in a sewer. We approached with caution and saw that Thames Water appear to be working on strengthening the cast iron conduit carrying the sewer across what I believe to be the Circle and Hammersmith & City lines, which run together into the nearby Baker Street Underground Station. Obviously, their website doesn’t elaborate much on that.​

We have started work to strengthen our sewer pipes in your area. Once the work is finished, the sewer will be much stronger and will ensure that we provide a top quality service.

The timber boards dam the sewer, allowing it to be pumped past the works and a camera presumably records what happens (and what belongings they might salvage further downstream) if it floods​

Further down we passed more nice junctions with more unexplored side pipes and the now familiar fibric optic cables.​

​

 

[tallginge]

Long before we reached this point, we could hear the Sewer Staircase of Doom No.1. When it needs maintaining (or possibly to aid in its construction) it can be bypassed. To do this, the gate (first pic) can be closed and the timber boards drop down. This dams the sewer, it fills up to overflow into the side pipe (second pic) and drops down (third pic) to another pipe, which leads to the nearby Mid Level No.1 interceptor. Normal flows coming the other way down the side pipe disappear down a hole (fourth pic) which leads to the same drop shaft, while seriously heavy flows go over the whole lot into the KSPS. I’ve never seen a set up like it before, it’s pretty cool (in a nerdy drain sense)​

We then came to the tumbling bay and its purpose has had me baffled. I don’t think it’s original because it’s so much deeper than most other ‘lost rivers’. The KSPS here, flows east to west under Oxford Street and parallel to the interceptor. It then goes down the tumbling bay and then turns southwards very close to Bond Street Underground Station, which opened in 1900, a long time after the interceptor was built. The approach to the staircase is much steeper than the rest of the sewer and the ‘stairs’ drop approximately 5m. The Jubilee and Central lines are both a little over 20m deep and I suspect the interceptor is very close to them but the KSPS is at all times quite a bit shallower, though you can still hear and feel passing trains! A possible reason for the staircase could be that the sewer clashed with other access tunnels from the station to the platforms or with the station building itself. Either that or the whole set up is original (and even more remarkable) and designed to catch storm flows that would be damaging or excessive further downstream, like an inline storm water detention tank but with an overflow.​

The noise is deafening in that area and there was no way that we were going to attempt to climb down, despite there being a handrail provided.​

On another visit with TheVicar we walked up to the bottom of the tumbling bay from The Egg. Due to the amount of flow and the speed at which it was travelling, photographing it was a struggle – the tripod just wouldn’t stay still for a long exposure and my torch was dimming having used it a lot to light-paint further downstream. At the time, we wondered how boards that size found themselves in a sewer, now we know….. They were right in my way anyway.​

Another side pipe then joins, with another tumbling bay (possibly from the setup above) then all the flow is taken under the cast iron penstock and down another pipe into the Mid Level No.1. Interceptor below. Beyond that is another oddity: a 2m high reverse tumbling bay. This allows only heavy and sustained storm flows to get up it and then continue on down the rest of the KSPS. Although the Mid Level is the work of Mr Bazalgette, I don’t think this apparent sump (unless it is original) is. When his intercepting scheme was complete, he designed one for Budapest and Port Louis in Mauritius before turning his attention to the Embankments and some of the bridges and tunnels across The Thames. He died in 1891 and permission was only given for construction of the Circle Line, on which Bond Street Station lies, in that year. A lot happens under this stretch of Oxford Street infrastructure-wise, and getting accurate drawings and dates, etc, will involve a trip to the archives. I’ll update the thread if ever I go.​

Beyond all of this is one of the most fetid and disgusting stretches of sewer I’ve ever come across. It certainly stopped me in my tracks on my first solo visit to this sewer. It’s in another rubber lined conduit, though this time it doesn’t pass directly over any tube lines. As it’s still close to Bond Street station I can only assume its purpose was to carry the sewer during the station’s construction or more likely that of other nearby buildings, to prevent it from falling in the hole dug for their foundations. It’ll also act as a reinforcement.​

We then passed more sizable connections until we got to the Piccadilly Branch of the Mid Level Interceptor and just beyond this, a dam blocking the flow, with an extra board on top that was there on my first visit but then seemed to have disappeared when we returned.​

In order to enlarge the area drained by gravitation a branch 4 feet by 2 feet 8 inches, with a fall of 4 feet per mile is carried along Piccadilly, passes through Leicester Square and Lincoln’s Inn Fields, to the main line at Kings Road, Gray’s Inn Road. The length of the main line is about 9 ½ miles and of the Piccadilly Branch 2 miles besides which there are minor branches and feeders. The fall of the main sewer varies from about 17 ½ feet per mile at the upper end by a gradual reduction to 2 feet per mile at the lower end.
The sizes vary from 4 feet 6 inches by 3 feet to 10 feet 6 inches in diameter and lastly to 9 feet 6 inches by 12 feet at the outlet. About 4 miles of the main line and the whole of the Piccadilly Branch were constructed by tunnelling under the streets at depths varying from 20 feet to 60 feet.

Then more connections and some breather shafts, designed to prevent dangerous gases from building up by allowing a through-flow of air. The smaller shafts are for smaller vent slots, the larger shafts have what we’ve termed pizza style lids varying in size up to approximately a yard in diameter.​

 

[tallginge]

We then arrived at the overflow into Kings’ Scholars Pond Storm Relief. Although not of great interest photography wise it provides a handy midway link between the Ranelagh Sewer and KSPS. It’s always much cooler in here as its not full of sewage and was a welcome ‘relief’ in the hot summer months. Known as The Egg, it was constructed by the Metropolitan Board of Works and starts near the Japanese Embassy. Approximately a third of the way along its route it combines with overflows from the Ranelagh Sewer, where its official title changes to the Kings’ Scholars Pond and Ranelagh Storm Relief, eventually discharging into Old Father Thames.​

The chamber is particularly rank and usually very steamy as the warm air of the sewer combines with the cool air from the relief. On my first visit, though, it was remarkably clear. On one occasion I cornered a rat, which chose to ‘hide’ at the top of the ladder leading to the sewer. Fortunately, I could just reach to pull myself up without using the ladder and ‘encourage’ it down so TheVicar could join me. I don’t much like rats on ladders.​

A short way further down the KSPS we came to the Low Level No.2 Interceptor. I don’t think many storm flows go over the boards, here, it being so close to The Egg. As usual its turdy for a while until more side pipes enter further down and build up some sort of flow. The first section is under Green Park and the next is under Buckingham Palace, though there’s not much to see, just the stagnant effluence of the affluent. London’s first drainor, John Hollingshead, described this section well in his book entitled Underground London in 1862​

We had not proceeded much further in our downward course, when Agrippa and the rest of the guides suddenly stopped short, and asked me where I supposed I was now. I thought the question quite unnecessary, as my position in the sewer was pretty evident. “We don’t mean where are you in the sewer” said Agrippa “but what’s above your head?”
“I give up” I replied
“Well Buckingham Palace,” was the answer
Of course, my loyalty was at once excited, and, taking off my fan-tailed cap, I led the way with the national anthem, insisting that my guides should join in chorus. Who knows but what, through some untapped drain that rude but hearty underground melody, found its way in to some inner wainscoting of the palace, disturbing some dozing maid of honour with its mysterious sounds and making her dream of Guy Fawkes and many other subterranean villains.

I think this section has been receiving some attention of late, as the invert has been cleaned and jet-washed to a shine. There’s evidence of tyre tracks a bit further up the sides, too….​

Further down is another particularly rank and this time deep section of sludgy shite that doesn’t drain away well, though the photos don’t make it look as bad as it is. We then came to two flaps. One was hydraulic, automatic and scary, the other, approximately 150m further down is just very heavy and hinged on the downstream side presumably to prevent a swollen Thames combined with high spring tides flowing any further up the sewer. It has a cat flap sized opening at the bottom to allow normal flows to pass underneath. Like many drainers before me, I’m not really sure under what circumstances Thames Water close the hydraulic flap but both the Ranelagh Sewer and The Egg have the same flaps in the same order, where they’re a similar distance from the Thames and a similar distance apart. It's obviously something to do with high tides and storm flows combining, though, as they're seriously heavy duty. Victoria Station’s new ticket hall opened in Jan 2017 and we passed under several new concrete sections of work carried out to strengthen the sewer in preparation for it in this section, between the flaps. Mind yer ‘ouch’ head​

On one occasion The_Raw and I left the sewer, just before the lower flap, at a lid that had previously been unusable. He works in the area and I don’t think he was expecting to emerge in what is apparently a very busy part of Victoria. I’d no idea! Luckily it was in the very early hours. He got the best pic by a mile that night, shortly before we left. Cheers dude, good times ​

Like The Fleet, the downstream part of The Tyburn is amazing and much bigger than the rest of what we’d seen. I’ve recently been reliably informed that the Deep Western Sewer interacts twice with the KSPS in this area and that it could be behind this modern flap, on the left here, but we didn’t check. I’ve no idea how this concrete sewer contributes to Londons Victorian network or really how it interacts with the KSPS but from what I’ve seen of it in the Ranelagh Sewer and The Egg it is very deep indeed. It was apparently tunnelled in the 90’s.​

We’d been warned about a large pipe discharging a lot of water very quickly in this area, when we came across what we thought would be it. We’d almost given up waiting to capture the event when it let rip! It seems to happen regularly and doesn’t last long when it goes but if you were unlucky enough to be passing, it’d have you off your feet, so must drop in from a reasonable height.​

A few more side pipes join in, before all the flow is taken down the Low Level No.1. Apparently, it’s explorable as are the outfall flaps at the end but we’d already walked about two miles on that visit and had been underground for most of the afternoon. We weren’t sure how much longer we’d got until the tide changed, either so we got pics and left​

This lower concrete section, leading to the outfall, is obviously relatively modern compared to the rest of the KSPS. TheVicar told me he’d seen photo’s online of it when it was uncovered (pre 1930’s), so we both went searching but neither of us found what he’d seen. I did notice, though, that the Kings Scholars Pond used to have its own storm relief pumping station so searched for that. It’s shown on old maps of London, too, next to the Equitable Gas Works and at the end of the open section, just prior to The Thames. The ‘old boys’ in the pic below, are walking towards the Thames in the first photo and were photographed again minutes later.​

If the cast iron pipe shown in the pic below is the same one as the first old pic above and it looks like it is, then the short yellow brick section is where the old pumping station used to be. The four flaps on the left likely lead to an overflow from the Low Level Interceptor and are what the old boys have gone to examine. This would mean the KSPS used to enter the Low Level further up, though, as it’s not in the old photo, which is again likely, as that section would otherwise have been an open sewer. As is usual with drains, the more you research, the more questions you end up with!​

I chuffin love trying to work stuff out like this nearly as much as exploring and photographing it. I’m particularly grateful to TheVicar for lid looking for us, his good company down there and his input into this report.​

Hope you’ve enjoyed reading it.​

 

[Ojay]

Well that was a most excellent read and a half, some great detail and pics you have there. I remember the struggle trying to whittle my lot down

Good to see some more pics of it all though

The K.S.P does indeed require a number of trips to see it all, it's also hard work at times, especially that badly constructed section under Victoria, it's the one sewer my meter has gone off in more than anywhere else!

"I don’t much like rats on ladders" BAHAHAH, they are 'armless

Job well done Ginge

 

[tarkovsky]

Jeeezus, TG, that’s an awesome report. Thorough narrative and great photos. Some great historical variety there and those fibre optic cables add a nice bit of colour. Kudos on doing the whole thing too.

Wish I had more time for drain tourism as those London bricks always make me jealous. Maybe I’ll have to wait till I retire, by which time they’ll probs have spraycreted the whole thing to deter Youtube sight seers - but at least I’ll be able to use my hover board to avoid the slushy bits.

 

[Polominto73]

Excellent report very informative and cracking pictures .

 

[Lenston]

Some good images there and very comprehensive report

 

[TheVicar]

Great work Tallginge! I have been looking forward to reading your report and it certainly doesn't disappoint.
It's been good fun popping down there to explore the various sections and the weather this year has been pretty kind, if not too hot on one or two of our visits.
The Tyburn really is a filthy old bit of subterranean London but nonetheless a pleasure to experience for one's self. Not a place I'll be in a hurry to return to, I might add

 

[paulpowers]

That is sexy
Brilliant write up and fantastic pics

 

[Adders]

Was late for work today as I was reading this in bed. No regrets. Top work, and great photos!

 

[albino-jay]

Great read, pics and all round awesome report. Nice one fella

 

[Camera Shy]

Top notch that.

 

[tallginge]

Thanks all for nice comments. I know it's not something many people can really relate to but I know you all like seeing this stuff so thought I'd make the effort.

I remember the struggle trying to whittle my lot down

I gave up trying - there's no point in having lots of nice photo's sitting hidden away on my hard drive for my pleasure only!

The K.S.P does indeed require a number of trips

- time well spent, dude

BAHAHAH, they are 'armless

- they're 'armless on the floor but fuck me they give you a fright when they jump out at you. I know you know this Ojay but for those that don't, they nest in all the filth that washes up in the side entrances. Sometimes you see their little burrows, some are occupied, some aren't. If they're cornered they go up the stairs then the ladders blocking your escape, thus forcing you to 'encourage' them off - onto you! Even a lil nip would involve a trip to A&E, something I really can't be arsed with at the end of a long day underground.

Kudos on doing the whole thing too.

- cheers bud. The standard had been set!

to deter Youtube sight seers

- yeah that's why I'm hitting it hard now. Besides, you can't do a dangle in a drain so it's not worth it right? Pricks. Oh and they're full shit too, which should be enough to put off most people. So are the drains

if not too hot on one or two of our visits

haha, you in yer t-shirt down there! just you wait till we do supersoaker!

Not a place I'll be in a hurry to return to

we've got plenty to be getting on with, bud but the Tyburn does have a lot of sidepipes, being between the ranelagh and the fleet. There'll be loads of significant junctions I've not even photographed as I didn't realise what they were. That's the good thing about go-pro's in drains - shame i don't have one

Was late for work today as I was reading this in bed. No regrets

I'd be exactly the same, mate, when it comes to reading drain reports. Glad you enjoyed the report. Yours and Ojays really did inspire me to start this off and it was particularly useful to see a different set of photos from his. That helped a lot actually

I still want to find out more about that staircase/ sump setup thing. The more I think about it, the more I think perhaps it was original and JB's work. I don't know how much deeper the interceptor is, though, that'll be key to finding out. Before the ML2 was built the ML1 would've taken all the flow that that now takes as well and then some more when it rains. It needed some serious engineering to cope with this as the piccadilly branch and the egg are much further downstream. And as boring as that Western Deep Level Sewer looks, its purpose, to explorers at least, is still largely unknown. That needs to change.

 

[tallginge]

@mockney reject - soz I forgot about your comment last night - it's disappeared now? I was well stressed trying to put three pages of photo's together and having to resize some of them as I went and thought no-one else will be up at that time. Trust you to be - thanks though! As i said on that slime thread, some sections are worse than others. You've gotta try it once, no?

 

[The_Raw]

That's how a report should be done. Less cringe more ginge please!