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Question - Portable Blowtorch

cunningcorgi

28DL Regular User
Regular User
#1
Can anyone recommend a portable blowtourch ?

Preferably not too expensive, capacity to last at least 30 mins at a time and not too cumbersome.

Thanks
 

cunningcorgi

28DL Regular User
Regular User
#6
I thought all blowtorches were portable?
Sorry, I should have said easily hand held. The one I broke definatly dosen't fit into that category (it was 'portable' and not heavy if you are 9 foot tall and have hands like shovels).

What you want to do with it? Portable creme brulee?
Not a bad idea, creme brulee on the go. All I'll need to learn is how to make said sugary desert.

No, its to get a support bracket for a flue liner (that connects to a wood burner) into place about 2-3 foot from the top of the chimney. Space is at a premium basically if I go at it from the outside on the roof or from the inside in the attic.
 

The Franconian

28DL Regular User
Regular User
#7
I also used one like this.
i do not proper understand what you say, but it is also a matter of the jets/or how the flame is directed, what fine flame you get.
The cheapest mostly only got a big flame
No warranty for what I say, I'm autodidact, not expert. Don't burn your house down.
 

cunningcorgi

28DL Regular User
Regular User
#10
What you trying to do? Warm up bracket so it will expand and slide up or weld? All you can do with propane alone is soft solder.
Sort of but not quite.

Originally (before I knocked the fireplace out to restore it to its former glory) there was a gas heater and back boiler built into the fireplace. The gas heater / back boiler had an internal alluminium flue running up the chimney in place. The original idea was to re-use this flue and connect it to the new wood burner. Except, some div forgot to check that the original flue would be compatible with the wood burner. Which it transpired it wasn't (basically it would disintigrate if used with a wood burner).

So, the old flue had to come out. Brackets secured the old flue at the top of the chimney and these were left in place with the intention that the new flue would be attached to this bracket. The problem is that the new flue was connected to the brackets and dropped down the chimney before Christmas. The woodburner arrived yesterday. Whatever way the flue has been dropped (or as I suspect cut), it is marginally too short to be connected to the woodburner. The installator (who is also my brother-in-law) has suggested heating the braket at the top of the chimney and then manipulate it downwards a tad so the flue will attach to the woodburner.

Now the reason he suggested this is because it is a three storey house and when the flue went in the roof tiles were also replaced. Scaffolding was needed and cost over £400. £400 that I would prefer not to shell out for again basically. We can get at the bracket from the attic by removing a few bricks but I only want to remove as few as is possible as I don't want a few tonnes of slate, masonry and assorted shit deciding to collapse itself ! And as the only payment I'm going to give him for doing this is the equipment I buy, I would like it to be the smallest, and preferably, the least expensive as can be and capable of doing what needs to be done.

Didn't consider a weld gun but will run it past him. Basically I just want to get this woodburner in and working so I can get some semblance of normality back (without shelling out for more scaffolding obviously !).
 

gas man

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
#11
Sort of but not quite.

Originally (before I knocked the fireplace out to restore it to its former glory) there was a gas heater and back boiler built into the fireplace. The gas heater / back boiler had an internal alluminium flue running up the chimney in place. The original idea was to re-use this flue and connect it to the new wood burner. Except, some div forgot to check that the original flue would be compatible with the wood burner. Which it transpired it wasn't (basically it would disintigrate if used with a wood burner).

So, the old flue had to come out. Brackets secured the old flue at the top of the chimney and these were left in place with the intention that the new flue would be attached to this bracket. The problem is that the new flue was connected to the brackets and dropped down the chimney before Christmas. The woodburner arrived yesterday. Whatever way the flue has been dropped (or as I suspect cut), it is marginally too short to be connected to the woodburner. The installator (who is also my brother-in-law) has suggested heating the braket at the top of the chimney and then manipulate it downwards a tad so the flue will attach to the woodburner.

Now the reason he suggested this is because it is a three storey house and when the flue went in the roof tiles were also replaced. Scaffolding was needed and cost over £400. £400 that I would prefer not to shell out for again basically. We can get at the bracket from the attic by removing a few bricks but I only want to remove as few as is possible as I don't want a few tonnes of slate, masonry and assorted shit deciding to collapse itself ! And as the only payment I'm going to give him for doing this is the equipment I buy, I would like it to be the smallest, and preferably, the least expensive as can be and capable of doing what needs to be done.

Didn't consider a weld gun but will run it past him. Basically I just want to get this woodburner in and working so I can get some semblance of normality back (without shelling out for more scaffolding obviously !).
so if its currently too short to fit the wood burner and you want to drop it down to the woodurner its still then to short to exit the chimney,honestly mate make sure you know exactly what your doing solid fuel kills more people from carbon monoxide poisoning than gas pus you need building control to sign it off afterwards because if it catches fire or your house does your home insurance will be invalidated
 

cunningcorgi

28DL Regular User
Regular User
#12
so if its currently too short to fit the wood burner and you want to drop it down to the woodurner its still then to short to exit the chimney,honestly mate make sure you know exactly what your doing solid fuel kills more people from carbon monoxide poisoning than gas pus you need building control to sign it off afterwards because if it catches fire or your house does your home insurance will be invalidated
Bracket only has to be dropped less than 3 inches at most.

Top of the flue will fit the back of the woodburner, sides will fit, just the bottom is slightly too short.

I could just try and yank it down enough to fit but don't fancy it buckling or breaking somewhere where I can't see, i.e. 97% of it leading to something happening like you mention...
 

SaltGeorge

Сталкер
28DL Full Member
#14
Bracket only has to be dropped less than 3 inches at most.

Top of the flue will fit the back of the woodburner, sides will fit, just the bottom is slightly too short.

I could just try and yank it down enough to fit but don't fancy it buckling or breaking somewhere where I can't see, i.e. 97% of it leading to something happening like you mention...

If I understand correctly, all the connections at the bottom will be sound, but at the top your liner will be short of the chimney pot and you want to leave this suspended by the bracket in the middle of the flue, without a connection to the pot, with chimney open to the sides around the top of the flue.

Rather you than me. Unless you're adding an extension to join the liner to the pot you risk flue gases dropping down the sides of liner and back down the chimney.


We had a similar problem, although the liner was short by about 6". The installer just added a length to the fixed rigid pipe that connects to the woodburner so that it extended up the chimney a little further than usual.
 

Marsden1002

Love it!
28DL Full Member
#15
I use this for work Rothenberger Super Fire 2 Blow Torch / Brazing Torch - 3.5644X - Superfire 2 on eBay!


PTS has them on offer for £60 inc gas and a couple of other bits. Please make sure what your doing as mentioned above wood burners kill more people than gas fires! Make sure you smoke bomb the flue and check every room it passes throu, the loft and is exiting the flue terminal correctly ie not from the sides and the full amount of smoke is coming out.

It also sounds to me the flue is too short, and its not worth risking pulling it down 3" as it won't be exiting the terminal correctly.