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Report - - The derelict sites of Jinmen island, Taiwan September 2023 | European and International Sites | 28DaysLater.co.uk

Report - The derelict sites of Jinmen island, Taiwan September 2023

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True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
Solo jaunt.

Jinmen is the name for two islands just off the coast of Xiamen in China, so close that even in cloudy weather the city is visible. Given the tumultuous history and present relationship between Taiwan and China, the island was heavily fortified over the years between 1949, before a considerable demilitarisation effort in 1992; now the overwhelming majority of military sites have been converted into tourist attractions. And they are absolutely everywhere, in every corner of the two islands. And even better, despite considerable bombing attacks on the island over the years, there is an absolute abundance of ornate, historic architecture everywhere we go; thankfully due to Jinmen's isolated location relative to Taiwan, it's avoided drastic modernisation which destroyed swathes of cultural heritage in both Taiwan and China. Nevertheless, Jinmen as far as I know doesn't really get much tourism compared to China or mainland Taiwan, and is seen as a niche place to travel to, and in my experience the island felt mostly empty and tourist-free.

Jinmen is absolutely a rite of passage for me as an explorer here. I've lived in Taiwan since 2016, and been aware of these sites since at least 2019, if not 2018, but never had enough motivation or desire to make a proper plan to get on a plane over here. So making a choice between hiking Taiwan's tallest mountain, Yushan, or this, I obviously chose this. No there was no threat of demolition for any of the sites, but it's never wise to procrastinate when it comes to exploring sites, whether they be new closures, mid-term ones or decade-long derelict sites. However, in exploring (and by extension, ghost hunting and thrillseeking) circles these sites have been extensively covered over the years, so it's about bloody time I actually made an effort to get over to this island and see the absolute abundance of dereliction on offer. And not a single site disappointed me, at all.

This will be a LONG report, so each site will be posted one by one in separate posts.

南雄育樂中心/Nanxiong recreation centre
This is one of those sites that has been extensively covered by explorers for absolutely years and is featured all over forums, much like a British or Belgian classic site that we all know of. This is a military cinema that was built by an army division in 1959 as a 500-seat combined theatre, cinema and recreation venue in a memorial park for the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis, which occurred between 1958 and 1979. There isn't a fully comprehensive history for this particular cinema, but to my knowledge it probably closed in 1992 when the military presence on Jinmen was stepped down, and in turn attendees dropped to the point that it was no longer viable to keep it open.

I arrived in Jinmen on Friday 18th and since like the military hospital it was only 5 minutes drive from my hostel, to kill time I chose to check it out without a camera whilst en-route to a museum. I returned a day later to take photos of the place.
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Photos won't show it, but the buildings on the site are all fetid pits that are full of animal waste and bones from goats and geese that roam free across the site. Indeed, as I was inside the theatre there was a female goat and baby goat inside with me, hiding at the back.

Hardly a dignified end for a military theatre, to be used as land for livestock grazing...

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Although this place was indeed a fetid open sewer, there were still plenty of artefacts to look at as I explored the place, including the original projectors.

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To give you a rough translation of what is said on the two pillars, they read: we take the rise and fall of our country as our responsibility, regardless of our own life or death.

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It is now too heavily decayed to read, but this was originally a speech by Jiang Jing Guo (蔣經國), son of the first Taiwanese president and former president.
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Outside is a memorial "bomb" which is still well looked after in contrast to the other structures.
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I don't know what this building was, but I checked it out the first day I arrived and refused to go back in after smelling the foulest stench you could ever imagine.
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Part 2 to follow.
 
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True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
花崗石醫院/Granite underground military hospital
The big daddy, the unquestioned king of derelict hospitals in Taiwan, one that has been heavily visited by explorers, ghost hunters and the curious alike ever since its closure. I've been waiting for at least four if not five years to do this, and here it is. Also, as recently as four or five years ago power was still on in some of the rooms, but since then it has been completely cut off and the place sits in terrifying darkness.

To give a concise history, Jinmen had a variety of hospitals built for use by the military in times of war until 1978 when the southern foot of Mount Taiwu was chosen to be the site for what at the time was the only underground military hospital in the world and it then opened as the Granite Hospital on September 1st, 1980. Over the years it functioned as a proper military hospital, until July 1st 2005 when Taiwan abolished the military administration and the hospital was handed over to the Department of Health and functioned as a general hospital. By 2007 a new hospital was opened on the sister island of Lieyu and finally the hospital closed that same year.

The total length of the entire underground structure was 1800m, split into five districts which you will see below.

The first thing you see as you enter, the ward and administration entrances.
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With the exception of a few beds left behind, the hospital was mostly empty wherever I went. At the same time, due to its underground design and total lack of air circulation, the atmosphere felt oppressive and dungeon-like, simultaneously making me feel deeply uncomfortable because of the damp, humid air and yet thrilling in a contradictory way.
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Given its purpose it's not surprising that it had huge blast doors at most major entrances.
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The kitchens, a place which I and many other explorers mistook for the mortuary (which I will come to later).
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Hidden at the end of a long, nondescript wing of the hospital was a mirror room with a single bed left in it.
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A doctor or nurses' room, still with its furnishings left behind.
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One of the long, cavernous ward wings.
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Though I regrettably didn't take any pictures, I walked up what was referred to in Chinese as the stairway to heaven (no not the Led Zeppelin song!), for which on the left was a ridged staircase for bodies and laundry to be pulled up and on the right was a walkway which led to a blue door that unbeknownst to me until I asked another explorer was for the laundry and mortuary. Remember this place was designed without lifts inside, and so bodies had to be carted up a long staircase to reach the top of the granite hill where the mortuary was.

On the right as I was walking up the staircase was the backup room, complete with diesel generators for which power could be generated.
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This was the long corridor to the A&E room, in which absolutely nothing remained except a desk for reception. Just outside to the left of this corridor is the remaining active building, which is still in use as an administration block for the local health authority.
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Going back into the middle of the hospital I found two operating theatres, both in advanced states of decay.

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History boards.
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At this time I was honestly glad to get out of the hospital given its pitch black and nightmarish atmosphere, made all the worse by the fact that I was all alone inside. I left satisfied I'd seen the hospital but also somewhat frustrated that I couldn't find the mortuary wherever I looked. Even the front buildings had nothing inside, and the map inside gave no indication of where it could be, and it was only by a quick check of other reports (and also help from another explorer) that I realised it was an external building on top of the hill.

Refusing to give up, I actually returned later that evening in the pouring rain, driving up a disused road that led past an active military post to what I finally realised to be the mortuary and laundry blocks. These will be posted later on in this report, so stay tuned.
 
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True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
金沙戲院/Jinsha cinema
This is another widely-covered classic site, another one of Taiwan's sites that have been abandoned for decades upon decades. This 600-seat cinema was built in November 1963, built in a public-private partnership with the army and opened in 1964. It had a modern design to it, with the structure, shape and appearance all influenced by the Cold War style at the time. Throughout its operational life it was popular with both locals and soldiers and became somewhat of a local landmark. However with considerable falls in the number of soldiers and patrons going to the cinema, it finally closed its doors in 1987 and stands derelict until this day. There are efforts to protect it however, and it is now on the heritage database as a protected site and in 2016 was given to the Jinmen County government for future restoration.

In one of the upstairs offices, there is this picture. If you look at the two buildings marked 防空洞 on the left and the right, these refer to two bunkers which people could evacuate to in the event of a bombing raid on the cinema. That should give you an idea of the nature of the environment in which it operated...
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The projection room is still complete with original projectors, and again the floor is littered with decaying film reels.
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The auditorium. It's not architecturally ornate, but its retro feel and incredible level of preservation make this an absolute pleasure to look at.
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Inside the ticket booth.
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The entrance to one of the air raid shelters, for which there was a second entrance on the outside. Unfortunately this had flooded over time so no way inside without boots.
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The outside of the building, with the ROC/Taiwan star at the top of the building.
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Once again thanks for reading, and stay tuned for even more dereliction from these tiny islands!
 

True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
Various mansions/廢墟的洋樓
For such a tiny island, there are a fair few of these derelict mansions on Jinmen, which despite being stripped and ruinous are actually well worth picturing. Here I will post a handful of pictures from the ones I visited, although there were two others which had stunningly beautiful exteriors but internally were either empty shells or completely modernised and devoid of any photographic appeal.

Again I could name each one of the mansions and give a history for each one, but there are simply too many for me to do that. To give you an idea of why they stand here and why they are derelict, they were basically built by rich Taiwanese/Malaysian businesspeople who made their fortune through trading and other businesses on Jinmen, but as of the 1970s and 1980s moved away never to return to the island. In many cases there are issues with ownership, which mean there are far too many owners that have simply forgotten about these sites, which is why in some cases they are left derelict and slowly collapsing.

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As you can see, many are too dangerous and heavily decayed to explore in full, but there are still plenty of wonderful photographic opportunities for explorers.
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This particular one had completely collapsed, making photography inside impossible and far too dangerous to reach the upper floors so only externals here.
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If you've made it this far, you're amazing! And YES, there is STILL more to come!
 

True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
歐厝戰車/Oucuo beach tank
Now for some proper military stuff. Though some of the abandoned tanks have been scrapped, there are actually a couple that have been preserved in their derelict state and left as beacons of a past war. This particular one was stranded on Oucuo beach on south-west Jinmen and left to rot.

Look behind and you can see the anti-boat spikes that are featured on every beach on the island. They were designed to slash at any boats that attempted to land on Jinmen in the fight between China and Taiwan.
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True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
花崗石醫院的靈堂/Granite Hospital mortuary and laundry
Having found it the night before, I drove back up the disused road past the military post, along a road that was now completely overgrown, unlit and eventually impassable past a certain point. Like something out of a horror film, I'd previously driven up this road under trees that ominously hung over the now crumbling road, before I reached a circular road from which the mortuary and laundry were hidden under a canopy of vegetation. It was only when I used the lights from my scooter that I could finally see the buildings behind the trees.

The building was split into three rooms, for which the left one was used for storage and held one set of body fridges, the middle room functioned as the memorial hall and the one on the right holding a single slab and more body fridges.

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A burner for burning ghost money, which is a Taiwanese tradition.
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To the right of the mortuary block was the laundry, still complete with washers and driers.
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I promise the next post will be the final post!
 

True_British_Metal

28DL Full Member
28DL Full Member
峰上三硝E-065戰車/Sanshao tank
This tank I believe had a fault with it, which rendered it immovable and at which point it was built into a bunker at Fengshang on the south-east of Jinmen to act as a stationary gun against ships attacking the island. The bunker is in a somewhat derelict condition but still maintained with power and water, open to the public to visitors, and can be visited 24/7.

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Inside the gun turret.
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The controls inside the driver's compartment.
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Thus concludes my Jinmen adventure! There were two other bunkers I visited nearby, one of which was still powered up inside, however I didn't take any pictures with my camera (only my phone) because they were vastly stripped out and not really worth taking photos of. Nevertheless, I think what I've posted here is more than enough!

Thanks again for looking,

TBM x
 

quick draw mcgraw

28DL Member
28DL Member
Been going through your posts on Taiwan over the past couple days. Excellent stuff. I'm here in Taiwan myself, but apparently I'm unable to message you as my account hasn't been in use enough I think. Would love to connect if you are open to it! Let me know :) Cheers!
 
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