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The Fate of South Wales' Coal Industry - 2020-2021 | Noteworthy Reports | 28DaysLater.co.uk

The Fate of South Wales' Coal Industry - 2020-2021

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Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User


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Looking over Blaenavon from Big Pit Colliery

Time for another mega-thread I think, this time focusing on disused coal mines in South Wales, as well as a few other bonus related bits of industry. I'm going to try to keep it a bit less text-heavy as I have a tendancy to type loads and it takes ages! There's a lot of images to share. The article is based around the findings of three trips. The first took place in September 2020 which ended up with me exploring Cwm coke works, a truly epic place. I decided to return to Wales with a friend in August 2021 whilst looking for a cheap exploring trip destination, and I was intruiged by the abandoned industry in an area still in many places undergoing decline and not yet redeveloped - a contrast to the south of England where many of its brownfield land has been redeveloped over the past decade. After our initial long weekend of exploring, I soon found there was much I had missed so we returned again several months later. Here is the result of these trips, but this is by no means an extensive list and I'm sure there's plenty more to see.

Here's a brief outline of the background to Wales' collieries if you don't already know, although it's a pretty widely known story and I'll keep it as apolitical as possible. South Wales, like other parts of the UK, sits upon a naturally-occurring underground 'coal field'; an area of geology where coal occurs. People started to realise coal could be used as fuel, and first efforts to harvest the black stuff began with rudimentary local efforts to lower brave individuals into shafts via something like a wicker basket down to the coal level. Eventually, the economic potential began to be capitalised on and formalised collieries started cropping up all over the place by the mid-1800s. Towns began to grow around the collieries as they boosted the area's economy and exported coal far and wide, fuelling the nation and peaking in the early 1900s. As it grew, the industry became more heavily regulated as accidents and push-back from workers became apparent. In 1947, the National Coal Board was formed as the Government decided to nationalise the industry and bring what was a very varied industry by numerous private companies large and small under one roof. Following increasing pressure from the Government under Thatcher upon the industry, the UK Miner's Strike was launched by Scargill's National Union of Mineworkers in 1984-85 to protest the oncoming closure of the collieries. It was a loss and in 1985, the Government would have their way and weaken trade unions, and the closure of the collieries began. The reduced industry was privatised in 1994, and towns had began to decline along with the collieries which once supported them. It was clear that many towns were still suffering upon my visits, exacerbated further by the economic effects of Covid-19. Whilst coal mining is not illegal in the UK and has prevailed in a very small way, it comes under heavy fire for its environmental impact. Strangely though, in 2022, the Government approved a new mine to open in Cumbria. The remains of the collieries are the ruins of this once prosperous civilisation which came to define twentieth-century Britain, and tell the story of its sharp rise and fall.


Big Pit Colliery, Blaenavon

So this is cheating a bit. It's a museum now and an excellent place to start. A lot of the infrastructure still survives and they even take you down into the coal mine itself for free. This was a very cool experience but sadly due to risk of sparks I couldn't take any images underground. This coal mine ran for 100 years from 1880 to 1980, and was first opened to the public in 1983. The pit head baths were added in 1939 as efforts towards hygiene increased, saving the miners from going home covered from head to toe.

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Other bits

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This mug will have later significance
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Llanhillieth Colliery Pit Head Baths


So now we've got the museum out the way, we can compare against an abandoned example of a colliery bath house. I did a report on this already a while ago so I suggest checking it out here for more information and pictures. These were built at a similar time to Big Pit in 1941. We were a bit hungover and hadn't seen this done online before, so it was a gamble taking the effort of blatantly climbing in on a public road. However, it paid off and I was pleased with the inside even if it's in a bad way.

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Lockers & showers removed

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Hafodyrynys Colliery Washery

So we've looked at pit head baths, now we're going to look at another twentieth-century feature which was often added to collieries. These enormous concrete structures were washeries designed to rinse slurry and extract coal dust to remove impurities, a modern technique which was more common post-WW2. The washery here was built around 1959 and now stands near farmland on its own in an unsuspecting rural area. The mine infrastructure was apparently covered over with chicken manure to revert it to grassland. It was chucking it down with rain so I had to wipe my camera lens, take the shot, then wipe it again. Not much to see beyond being extremely photogenic.

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1975 image from Gordon Edgar on Flickr

Here is a summary from this website which goes into its' modernist architectural design:

The new colliery buildings and washery were designed with modern buildings and equipment for maximum efficiency. Architecturally, they were influenced by the functionalism of pre-war collieries in Germany designed by the Bauhaus architect Peter Behrens, by the sinuous forms of the Festival of Britain, and possibly by the nearby Brynmawr Rubber Factory. All the buildings had reinforced concrete frames filled with brick or glass panels and flat, curved or waveform concrete roofs. Washery plants were key elements in post-war efficiency improvements, as only half of British coal output was being washed in 1945. The washery at Hafodyrynys contained equipment for extracting coal dust from slurry and drying the remaining waste before tipping: processes that were rare before the 1950s. It was built entirely of reinforced concrete with continuous glazed panels.

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Blaenserchan Colliery Washery

This washery is of a slightly more conventional design but no less impressive. It was absolutely huge and we viewed it from a hilltop path. This washery was older and apparently built in 1925 for Llanerch colliery adjacent, and later used until arund 1962 by the Blaenserchan colliery which closed in 1985. The washery was a long way from us but I grabbed a good shot on my telephoto lens as it looked a pain to reach on foot and we didn't have all day. Along the path was a memorial to a disaster which happened at Llanerch colliery in 1890, involving a gas explosion and collapse. It resulted in the deaths of 176 men as well as boys, pretty horrible to think what happened to them in their final days or if they survived trapped inside the mine.

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Someone left some actual miners boots there. It's worth saying I did these explores in a pair of DMS Army boots much like this.
People said I was mad for buying them to explore in but they worked 100 years ago so why not now.


TBC...​
 
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Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
Penallta Colliery

Penallta colliery began construction in 1905 and was in operation by 1908. I assume the headstocks and power hall were constructed at this time, with the pit head baths added c.1938. It operated until 1991.

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This colliery is a pretty popular abandoned one to see. It comprises a huge pit head bath building, which after struggling through what felt like a jungle of undergrowrth uphill we couldn't get into. It also retains its two headstocks as well as the power hall - essentially a turbine hall powering the colliery. In addition to this were several other converted buildings as well as one in the process of conversion I walked inside as it was wide open. We didn't find a way into the power hall on the first visit so we were pleased to tick it off the list on the return visit. The whole site is in the process of redevelopment, and nearby there's a park with a giant earthen pit pony called Sultan made from mining spoil. The ground everywhere here is just coally stuff as well as a dashing of razor wire (fortunately not in the park though).

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Inside one of the headstocks

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What a find - an NCB mug just laying there

Pit head baths:

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Half-refurbed building:
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Power Hall Interior:

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Lots on this one! That's all on the collieries themselves, but next I'll be looking at some of their related infrastructure and how it worked with other industries.
 

Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
Brynmawr Rubber Factory Boilerhouse

So deviating from collieries themselves, this is one example of another industry close by which made use of the local coal supply. The Brynmawr rubber factory was built for use by Dunlop Semtex (not the plastic explosive) in 1947 and took five years to complete, designed by Ove Arup in exemplary modernist style making use of reinforced concrete, not too dissimilar to the nearby colliery washery at Hafodyrynys which perhaps took inspiration. The factory was intended to provide jobs to some of the former coal workers when the industry was declining. Sadly the factory declined too and closed by 1981 all too early to mitigate much of the unemployment following the closure of the mines.

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It was demolished in 2001 despite its architectural significance and Grade II* Listed Status (shenanigans), leaving only the arched boilerhouse surviving opposite an Asda which made for a good lunch stop. Still pissing it down, we ventured hurridley in. I also climbed onto the raised walkway which was sketchy in the rain as it involved using a slippery tree branch. This is where the coal connection comes in - the boilerhouse was fed with coal brought in directly via wagon on this walkway, and the rails are still visible. The coal would have been brought into the upper floor of the arch and tipped into hoppers which would have fed the boilers. Even for a small ruin forming the back end of a once huge building, its design is still quite impressive.

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Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
Cwm Coke Works, Beddau

So this is a classic urbex place that I hear has been a long-standing destination until its recent demolition works by Squibb (not sure how much is left so go and find out). I visited this in September 2020 before exploring the collieries, and at that point the coke ovens had been demolished but there was still tons of enormous stuff left. It was absolutley massive and truly memorable, and there was more there I didn't get to see in the interests of time. I never got to see Beckton Gas Works closer to home but it looked very similar with its concrete construction. I wasn't sure if I was in Vietnam or a Stalingrad grain elevator, but it turned out to be neither. As well as looking gnarly as hell, the site did feel pretty damn contaminated, we ended up walking through a drain of orange acid mine runoff leaking out into the nearby waterways and soil, not to mention dodging a fair bit of asbestos and finding everything to be covered in coal dust. All your typical sorta good stuff.

Cwm began as a colliery here in Beddau as far back as 1870. The coke works was built next to Cwm Colliery in 1958 by the NCB as demand for coke grew - a cleaner form of coal made by heating it at high temperatures. It was useful because it produced less smoke for general use and also heated to higher temperatures, useful in metal-working industries. Parts of the original colliery survive including the wooden cooling towers going back probably a century or more, but I believe these are falling into disrepair if they haven't already been demolished. Again these are supposed to be Grade II* listed. The coke works did not close until 2002, with the colliery having closed in 1986. There's talk of building houses over the site, but from my single visit I can tell that would be a very expensive job!

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The antique wooden cooling towers from the colliery visible back right

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Boilerhouse
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Where coke was loaded onto a huge locomotive for export

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The bunker tower is absolutely enormous. That's some Middle Earth shit.
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Don't do lines of this stuff.
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Wastelandr

Goes where the Buddleia grows
Regular User
Bonus: Margam TMD Railway Yard, Port Talbot

To finish off, if there wasn't already too much content for one post, I thought I'd complete it with this bonus. Long story short, this was a railway maintenance depot for locomotives headed for Margam Knuckle Yard, serving the Tata Steel works at Port Talbort. Of course, steel is a whole different industry to coal, but the works would have been powered by coal, potentially coke for heating the metal, such as that mined and made at Cwm and other collieries in the south of Wales. I was under the impression that some of the abandoned trains here were coal wagons but I could be completely wrong. In other words, I'm pretending this is relevant when it really might not be, but I thought it might make for a good finale

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So that's all folks. If you've made it this far then cheers for reading, once again I've overdone it on the post length. I do like these thematic posts though, I'd rather link places together and touch upon their wider significance. One place that needs an honourable mention is Navigation Colliery - I passed it several times but couldn't find a way in. Now I wish I'd at least got one photo from afar, but alas. Bye for now and happy exploring :thumb

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Seffy

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Most excellent reportage, mate. It’s clear you’ve put time and effort into this and it shows.
I can’t believe I never noticed the old sign at the bottom of the road at Cwm Coke works before (it’s the small things)!
 

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